Though they were there to start planning for the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 season, President Donald Trump’s upheaval of global trade policies was weighed on the minds of exhibitors and attendees at Kingpins Amsterdam last week. Many exhibitors said Trump’s reciprocal tariff spree and subsequent 90 day pause on duty hikes, excluding China which soared to 125 percent on April 12, have put clients in a holding pattern.
A representative for Marmara Hemp compared the mood at the trade show to the quiet week between Christmas and New Years. There’s a lot of excitement about products but no one wants to do business yet.
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The standstill is discouraging for the French company which has been expanding its cottonized hemp program—90 percent of their denim mill clients were exhibiting at the show—and building buzz for Smart Linen. Made from spinning waste, it is the first pre-consumer GRS certified linen.
While existing customers like Levi’s have pre-booked their orders for the company’s cottonized linen the rep said he anticipates that most companies will wait to see how negotiations unfold before making any new commitments.
“Brands are waiting to see what’s next,” said Aydan Tuzun, Naveena Denim Mills SVP of sales and marketing. Approximately 40 percent of the Karachi, Pakistan-based mill’s business is in the U.S. Clients have not asked for discounts, but Tuzun said she’s heard of stories from other manufacturers about brands requesting mills to share the burden of the extra costs.
Having facilities that can produce the same type of products in China, Mexico and Vietnam is an advantage for Twin Dragon. A representative for the mill said no one is making drastic moves yet however they could shift their production from one region to another if they choose.
Likewise, Ebru Ozaydin, The Lycra Company’s global strategic marketing director for denim and wovens, said the company’s global reach and its ability to produce fibers in five countries helps balance the effects of turbulent economies. “Since we’re at the very beginning of the supply chain, we have to wait and see how brands and the end consumer react,” she said about the company’s next moves.
Despite the uncertainty, Ozaydin remains optimistic, noting how momentum is building for Lycra’s latest technologies. In the last six months, the company introduced FitSense technology, its targeted sculpting innovation, to the supply chain and launched it in the market with Spanx. The men’s category is proving to be a major opportunity for its Adaptiv. Additionally, the first jeans made with bio-derived Lycra EcoMade just hit the market. The fiber, which is partially made with corn, is used in four Spring 2025 Agolde styles.