Retailers Highlight a Season of Statements: Coats, Shoes — and Ukraine
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Paris Fashion Week delivered a string of strong collections that left retailers confident about the fall season, but the outbreak of the war in Ukraine turned the expected triumphant return to physical shows and in-person events into a more reflective moment as industry executives were keenly aware of the conflict’s impact on the fashion community.
“The juxtaposition of Parisian glamour and fashion with what is happening in Eastern Europe made the week more difficult to enjoy than normal. We are thinking of our partners, friends and those being impacted by war and are helping in ways in which we can from afar,” said Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy’s, New York.
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“It was a powerful week where collections got personal and sentiments of community and love prevailed,” wrote Rickie de Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom.
Demna’s powerful and personal statement at Balenciaga about the Ukraine war was top-of-mind for all, who praised the designer’s ability to create a thought-provoking, relevant moment.
The overarching impression was that the City of Light delivered in terms of fashion and retail.
“Merci Paris! We couldn’t have asked for a better marriage of creativity and salability,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and director of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, noting that “many collections were actually some of their best ever,” which she attributed to pandemic-driven reflectiveness.
“It was extra meaningful to get face time with the designers themselves. The industry was, and is, understandably conflicted about its meaning in the context of the next growing crisis, and we appreciated the thoughtful and moving responses from numerous houses, as it helped us contextualize our purpose here,” she added.
As for digital, it is here to stay. While seeing products in person certainly encouraged buyers to snap up new talent and write more robust orders, travel remains challenging and not all teams were on the ground in Paris. Platforms like Joor and Nu-order remained an essential tool, according to Kirna Zabete’s Beth Buccini. Their use went from in-person order taking during appointments and continued remotely to finalize selections, even for Europe-based retailers.
Emerging talent stood to benefit the most from IRL formats, as stores felt that showrooms, including the one showcasing the 2022 LVMH Prize semifinalists, were “a great place to engage with new designers and reunite” with those they already had their eyes on, according to Browns’ buying director Ida Petersson.
So what did retailers have on their radar? Statement outerwear and towering footwear — especially boots of all shapes — will be the defining look of fall 2022, while evening looks were also on many of their shopping lists. Black and Valentino’s PP Pink got numerous callouts, while pops of color and luxurious textures provided depth.
On the accessories front, bags will grow bigger and bolder, and look out for Saint Laurent-style stacks of bracelets: they’ll no doubt be a major styling move.
And the season was an opportunity to add to pre-collections, with Buccini adding she was focused on “rounding out our pre-collection orders with sexy, special evening looks, emotional colors, great outerwear and buttery soft leathers.”
Here, retailers share their impressions on the week, point out their favorite moments and list must-have items for fall.
Elizabeth von der Goltz, chief commercial officer at Matchesfashion
Favorite collection: Vintage glamour and “Le Smoking” reigned at Saint Laurent — set against the Eiffel Tower it felt timeless. Valentino’s ode to love with the use of monochromatic shocking pink and black shone a light on the dramatic silhouettes and craftmanship of Pierpaolo Piccioli — it was amazing to see the collection in such a pure way. Loewe’s conceptual collection was fabulous and I loved the feeling of sex and irreverence from Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Best show format: Balenciaga’s show was so incredibly moving. Models fought against harsh conditions originally intended to reflect the climate crisis but took on a whole new meaning. On each seat was a T-shirt of the Ukrainian flag and a personal note from Demna. He drew on his own childhood experience of being a refugee to create a powerful statement about survival.
Top trends: Tonal dressing has been a standout trend across fashion month and we saw this continuing in Paris. The mood for dressing up was prevalent with crystal shine, sequins, sheer fabrications and cutouts from the likes of Valentino and Germanier. We also saw strong tailoring with a twist from Loewe and Sacai, who showed a new take on suiting this season.
Must-have items: Head-to-toe chocolate blouse and full-length skirt from Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Saint Laurent’s tuxedo and crystal strappy sandals. The sculpted minidress at Valentino. Loewe’s silver foil bow sandals, and anything shearling from Isabel Marant.
New talent: It was great to see such strong showcases from [designers included in our] Innovators [showcase], from Rui’s first presentation to Germanier’s debut show. Ludovic de Saint Sernin was also a personal highlight of the week.
Impressions of the week: The mood was mixed and there was a somber feel to the week as people felt very affected by the current situation in Ukraine. Shows supporting peace and love felt very apt and I feel that people there tried to support one another and the ateliers, whilst being reflective.
Rickie De Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Rick Owens and Courrèges. Balenciaga put forth a powerful show with clothes made to withstand the elements. We saw a brilliant clash of prints and fabrics from Dries Van Noten in an intimate presentation designed to experience the collection up-close. We also loved Saint Laurent’s effortless outerwear and what is sure to be the must-have stack of bracelets. Other notable collections included Valentino and Pierpaolo [Piccioli]’s commitment to the color pink, Rick Owens and his collection of standout cropped puffer jackets and long line skirts, Courrèges’ minimal sexy signatures and a romantic Dior collection complete with the stunning reopening of their Avenue Montaigne store.
Best show format: Balenciaga was the standout show of Paris with their powerful and emotional response to the crisis in Ukraine. We also loved Dries Van Noten’s intimate collection walk-through, allowing us to touch and interact with the beautifully constructed pieces.
Top trends: Androgynous tailoring; couture knits; sportswear for evening; voluminous outerwear; investment pieces; the ’90s redux continues.
Must-have items: Loewe surrealist accessories, Chanel’s logo boots and anything Valentino pink.
New talent: From Róisín Pierce’s dreamy all-white textured separates to Meryll Rogge’s sporty take on eveningwear, both LVMH Prize semifinalists are ones to watch.
Impressions of the week: It was a powerful week in Paris where collections got personal and sentiments of community and love prevailed.
April Hennig, senior vice president and chief merchandising officer at Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Coperni and Valentino.
Balenciaga was by far the most powerful show of the season. Set in an arctic tundra, Demna presented a deeply personal show that draws on his personal experience as a refugee and directed attention to Ukraine. Silhouettes turned slimmer and sharper, with pointy stiletto boots and close-fitting jersey dresses with exaggerated trains for evening.
Saint Laurent was a strong start to Paris Fashion Week. Anthony Vaccarello has really hit his stride and turned out a collection of exceptional outerwear (the evening coats with faux-fur collars were a highlight), nonchalant eveningwear that was minimal, yet very cool and a flawless array of modern tuxedos that were sharp and sophisticated.
New-to-Moda brand Coperni delivered the ultimate cool girl’s wardrobe for fall, with clever takes on tailoring (including avant-garde hoods that ingeniously look just as good down as up), sheer embellished minidresses (also the ice blue option shown on Lila Moss was fantastic) and deconstructed denim. This is the brand everyone will want to be seen in.
Valentino created its own shade of saturated pink for the season, dubbed PP Pink. It dominated the collection and surprised us with just how versatile the color can be, found on everything chic, including oversized tailoring, elegant off-the-shoulder minidresses, feminine chiffon floor-length gowns and intensely crafted embroidery. There really is something to suit all.
Best show format: The immensely moving Balenciaga show, with its clear reference to Ukraine and Demna’s personal experience of displacement, exceeded expectations and demonstrated the impact that fashion can have on wider culture. The finale looks, one in solid yellow and the other a blue jersey gown with a train, stood in solidarity with Ukraine. Dedicated to “forever refugees,” it delivered a poignant message of fearlessness, resilience and peace.
Top trends: Thigh-high boots are making a powerful return to fall 2022, evident across multiple runways ranging from Isabel Marant’s chunky, metallic styles to the oversized proportions of Balenciaga’s version with their signature square toe. Statement outerwear was everywhere: it will be hard for us to edit down. There’s emphasis on texture and oversized proportions, either long in hemline or boxy at the shoulder. There’s also been some exceptional faux fur in Paris this season — Stella [McCartney] and Saint Laurent did it best.
In tailoring, after years in stretchy waistbands, we’re seeing a welcome return to true tailoring and a new appreciation for cut and fit. What’s interesting about the suits is their sense of comfort and fluidity, something we’re calling “Power Casual.” Think of a soft entry back to the Monday to Friday wardrobe.
For long and lean evening, while we’ve seen a mixed bag in other cities, the trends in Paris are signaling a chic new wave of eveningwear when it comes to silhouette. It’s long and body-skimming, but there’s still a sense of freedom and ease to it. Saint Laurent’s ivory turtleneck gown, look 38, with stacks of sculptural bangles climbing up each arm, hits the tone perfectly.
After a few seasons of the micro bag, handbags are now seen in blown-up proportions. The trend was evident with Valentino’s signature Roman stud-accented large leather shoulder bags, The Row’s oversized leather clutches for day-to-night wear, and Stella McCartney’s large, candy-colored crossbodies with tonal straps.
Must-have items: Balenciaga’s hourglass tape bag was a standout. The newer signature bag shape with this bold, innovative logo is the perfect statement piece. We also feel strongly that Valentino’s pink patent-leather sky-high platform pumps will be the must-have shoe for fall.
New talent: Eli Mizrahi from Monot continues to deliver concise collections that really resonate with our client and this season was no exception. The offering of hyper-minimalist, graphic, cutout gowns and bustiers raises the bar for modern eveningwear.
Impressions of the week: Designers reflected on the deeply saddening war in Ukraine, and sent messages of peace and solidarity. The collections themselves were a triumphant return to real-life shows, and both the designers and fashion community were overwhelmingly grateful to be all together again.
Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy’s, New York
Favorite collections: Alexandre Vauthier, Hervé L. Leroux and Saint Laurent.
Best show format: Balenciaga
Top trends: Showing some skin where an exposed bra has become the staple and now embracing the legs, this time the thigh, with the return of the miniskirt accented by socks that cover the knee. Women in power, as March is Women’s History Month, and…we have the return of the power suit and tuxedo. As creative director of Givenchy Matthew M. Williams said, “powerful, sophisticated femininity.”
Must-have items: The hues of anything in pink with tweed and leopard. Boots are the footwear of choice in all shapes and styles, particularly over-the-knee boots, which we love.
New talent: Unfortunately, due to world events, we did not travel to Paris once again this season (we miss it so much!), which makes welcoming new talent into Jimmy’s quite challenging. We pride ourselves as an incubator of emerging names, but without the ability to touch, feel and see the fit in person, we have waited and are keeping an eye out for a few new names.
Impressions of the week: The juxtaposition of Parisian glamour and fashion with what is happening in Eastern Europe made the week more difficult to enjoy than normal. We are thinking of our partners, friends and those being impacted by war and are helping in ways in which we can from afar. Reading the notes and watching the Balenciaga show was very powerful.
Jessica Crawley, divisional merchandise manager at Ounass (Al Tayer Group)
Favorite collection: Saint Laurent. The collection felt effortless, simplistic, yet bold with an overwhelming sense of certainty and maturity as there were fewer skin-revealing looks that we expect to see from Saint Laurent.
Best show format: Valentino. Pink on pink on pink. From pink invites, to a pink venue to an almost entirely pink collection, it was dramatic and refreshing compared to the mostly black and earthy tones that dominated the runways during Paris. Balenciaga: Demna is known for entwining fashion and important global events; this show was as relevant and important as ever.
Top trends: Continuing from spring 2022, cutouts and bra tops were important trends that we will be buying back into. There was also a relaxed feel with free-flowing skirts and dresses from Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney. By contrast, tailoring was strong, with plenty of statement coats from Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chloé, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, The Row and Nanushka. Leather was also a strong trend and one of my favorites, particularly from Chloé.
Must-have item: Platform pumps — Valentino did them best.
Impressions of the week: Fashion weeks are back. There was a return to normalcy and buyers, press and influencers alike were excited. I think the excitement could even be felt by those who did not attend as there was a lot of content being shared on social media.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director at Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Loewe, The Row and Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: The Balenciaga show this season was clearly one of the best shows of all time, alongside the intimate presentation from Dries Van Noten explaining his new fragrance and beauty offerings.
Top trends: Cargo pants, sequins, decadence, leather and shearling. The main colors we saw were chocolate and bright blue.
Must-have items: Cargo pants, wide-legged trousers and oversized cardigans.
Impressions of the week: Really great to be back in Paris at the shows and in the showrooms again.
Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Sacai and Nanushka.
Best show format: Balenciaga, with a unique kind of immersive presentation and a very emotional AI for this fashion week. Dries Van Noten, with an intimate presentation by the designer himself, mixing fashion and beauty in an amazing Parisian building never seen before. The Row, with an intimate presentation in their amazing new Parisian headquarters; you can actually see all the detail and construction of the clothes, with the designers present. Sacai, which showed again in the amazing Parisian City Hall décor.
Top trends: Monochrome cozy comfort, Highlands inspiration, elegant outdoor fashion, leather looks, shearling, velvet, new tailoring, knits all over, party time, eveningwear, sequins and crystals.
Must-have items: New perfecto, oversized men’s suit jackets, evening dresses, platform-heel shoes, high boots and outdoor shoes.
New talents: We have seen many new talents, but also are very pleased to see again all the talents we have included in past seasons from all over the world and meet with them again.
Impressions of the week: Finally, after two years, we got the fashion week energy again, even if it was during a very peculiar international moment. Creativity was amazing with spectacular collections. We have reconnected with all our partners worldwide physically, and that was a magical moment, as it is key in terms of human exchange and creativity.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente
Favorite collection: Off-White, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, The Row, Chloé, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Miu Miu, Courrèges, Coperni and Schiaparelli.
Best show format: Balenciaga was the highlight of the week, with its emotional representation of a refugee escaping in the snow: everything from the snow bubble to the music, the intensity of the models walking in the snow really spoke to the war in Ukraine and angst that Demna was experiencing in remembering his own personal refugee story. While we have been continuing to work in the midst of the war so close to us in Europe, his show felt like a proper way to create awareness of the tragedies that are surrounding us. In a much lighter format, there was Ottolinger’s phy-gital show in a “gaming parlour,” which was worth notice. Roger Vivier was also one of the presentations you couldn’t miss for its fun entertainment.
Top trends: Micro proportions, from extreme miniskirts at Courrèges to mini-shorts at Miu Miu, cropped bombers and micro jackets from Loewe to Isabel Marant. Fake fur, from the hyper-realistic faux mink at Saint Laurent to the pop-colored iterations almost everywhere else. In contrast to the more widespread party-sexy mood, we have also seen the resurgence of a “chic” lady (Saint Laurent parting ways from its party girl was definitely a statement) and brands and buyers returning to “real luxury,” meaning precious materials and beautifully crafted pieces that will stand the test of time (Chloé and The Row). A strong focus on footwear, going back to heels, plateaus and boots.
Must-have items: Platform shoes at Valentino, thigh-high “cuissardes” [boots] from Balenciaga, supertight patent sock-boots at Courrèges. A long coat from Saint Laurent, paired with a satin dress, will be the evening uniform for fall 2022. At Miu Miu, the hot pieces were the micro shorts and the chunky biker boots.
New talents: There were so many new stimuli coming from a very fruitful week. Among the names to cite were Germanier, for its glam, joyful beaded pieces, and Gauchère, for its modern and timeless pieces.
Impressions of the week: It was an extremely positive week, following the great energy of Milan Fashion Week and a much-needed return to the physical shows. Everybody was excited to be back in Paris after two years of pandemic, and the collections did not disappoint.
Beth Buccini, owner and founder of Kirna Zabête
Favorite collection: Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Valentino and Sacai.
Best show format: Valentino was so magical with Piccioli’s message of love and the incredibly impactful pink story.
Top trends: Lots of play with volumes, great textures in velvet and bouclé, sequins, sheerness and fantastic shearling outwear.
Must-have items: Double-layer bra jackets from Sacai, leather dress from Chloé, anything pink from Valentino, balloon shoes and a padded flamenco bag from Loewe and sequined coat from Dries Van Noten.
Budgets: Budgets are up! Business is very strong and the customers are responding to newness.
Impressions of the week: It was so wonderful to be back in Paris after two long years. There was so much buzz in the showrooms and lots of great new brands that emerged during COVID-19. But, of course, it was also very surreal in the midst of the heartbreaking Ukrainian situation.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director, Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg
Favorite collection: I totally fell in love with Valentino. Everything was just perfect. The color block, the location, the collection and the atmosphere. Piccioli raised the level even higher again and I think will be impossible to forget such an amazing collection and show.
Best show format: For sure, Balenciaga was the show of the season. Again Demna surprised us with a real emotional performance. Saint Laurent was the best opening of Paris Fashion Week. The emotion to see the essence of French style in front of the Eiffel Tower is unforgettable. The style was perfect and I loved the eco furs and the long coats.
Top trends: Lingerie and transparencies. I think it’s clear that the moment of sophisticated dressing and luxury style is back.
Must-have items: Vtmnts suit, pink Valentino dress or anything pink from Valentino.
New talent: Atelier Spiga 50. A new Italian brand that showed its first collection in Paris this season.
Impressions of the week: I enjoyed a lot fashion week this season. The city and the events were at pre-COVID-19 levels. Everything looks so Parisian and so French. Looking forward for the seasons to come. All brands welcomed me really well. We all want peace and we all want to do business together.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges
Favorite collection: The Off-White show kicked off Paris Fashion Week powerfully — the collection was a homage to the late Virgil Abloh, encompassing his creativity and passion for the label. From menswear to womenswear, from day to night, streetwear to couture, it was all there in a show setting that hosted Virgil’s closest friends and collaborators as guests. Kendal, Kaia, Gigi, Bella, Cindy, Naomi just to name a few of these, presented an extraordinary collection that we will not forget. The performance by Jeff Mills was also a great element of the show.
The Courrèges show was a notable moment in Paris, presenting a masterclass in sexy dressing. Each piece of the collection had an element of desirability — something reflected in the brands’ success with our customers at Selfridges. Prominent shapes and cuts were well-executed, making the entire collection a success.
Balmain’s show focused on monochromatic styles combined with motorsports references throughout. The concisely referenced themes within the collection were great to see and the progression in menswear felt especially welcomed. The chunky shoes and new sneakers, alongside noticeable development in denim, added to a brilliant collection overall.
Best show format: Balenciaga was another standout show. The setting and backdrop created an emotional connection to current times around the world. The human and emotional aspect of the presentation was very much felt amongst all guests in attendance.
New talent: New to our show calendar this year were Rokh, Botter, Weinsanto and Vaquera. All showed collections highlighting Paris as a great platform for emerging brands to come through and present collections that are creatively very strong but also great commercial opportunities.
Must-have items: Last but not least, the Acne collection was a beautiful moment that showcased everything that the brand can do, the boots and masterfully created gowns at the end of the show were key highlights of the collection for us.
Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns
Favorite collection: Personal highlights are Loewe, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Schiaparelli — all unforgettable.
Best show format: Balenciaga delivered an incredible and thought-provoking show with an enclosed apocalyptic snowstorm. Demna’s heartfelt statement showing solidarity with Ukraine was also a special and poignant moment.
Top trends: We’ve seen lots of statement outerwear — dramatic floor-length coats from Givenchy and Valentino are standouts. Looking at accessories, platform heels continue to be the dominating shoe trends, with special mention going to Rick Owens, Valentino and Balmain.
Must-have items: Any and all of Loewe’s statement shoes are sure must-haves, but the silver ribbon sandals are a personal favorite.
Budgets: This season our favorite Parisian brands continue to deliver such strong collections — up!
New talent: We’re excited about the new brands we’ve discovered, but keeping names close to our chest for now. It’s great to see Paris brimming with new talent and the LVMH Prize semifinalists presentation is always a great place to engage with new designers as well as reunite with some of the names we’re already working with, including Knwls, ERL, Yueqi Qi and Paula Canovas del Vas.
Impressions of the week: We’re very fortunate to be able to experience these incredible fashion moments in real life once again; however, concern for Ukraine was strongly felt throughout, with emotional referencing to the conflict, notably Givenchy and Balenciaga.
Simon Longland, head of menswear at Harrods
Favorite collection: Saint Laurent, a standout fashion “moment” for the season. Each piece was exceptionally chic, from the exquisite tailoring to the extraordinary gowns, statement outerwear, and stacks of bangles worn up both arms, the show was undeniably Saint Laurent. Feels like a new direction for the brand and Anthony Vaccarello brought glamour in the true essence of the word.
As always, The Row was impossibly chic, classically feminine silhouettes in the brands signature neutral palette — everything in the collection was incredibly wearable, truly investment dressing.
All pink everything at Valentino! Pierpaolo Piccioli displayed such luxurious depth with experimenting in the world of pinks from sky-high platform shoes to coats and gowns in rich fabrications to eye-catching embellishment — it was absolutely one to remember.
Best show format: Year after year, Saint Laurent’s location overlooking the Eiffel Tower is iconic. This year was no different, set undercover with the view as the grand reveal, it was a perfect setting for a perfect collection. Balenciaga also displayed great creativity and went outside (or in!) the box with the models facing a gusty blizzard as guests watched from outside; it was an emotional and thought-provoking experience.
Top trends: Black dominated the season (Balenciaga, Balmain, Chloé, YSL, The Row — true to form).
The contrasting we saw throughout Milan continued in Paris and each house displayed it in their signature way. First, we saw this from Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior as she paired thick leather motocross-style accessories and jackets with sheer, delicate dresses, or clean scriptural black silhouettes throughout the opening portion of the show. Miu Miu also played to the season’s mood for contrasts in their looks and accessories, as their footwear ranged from delicate ballet pumps in feminine colors and fabrics to strong buckled boots.
Tailoring remained a focus this week, in silhouettes from relaxed, boxy styles at Stella McCartney and Balenciaga to Saint Laurent’s exquisite, tailored styles.
Chloé, Loewe, and Acne showcased the mastery of leather this season in every guise possible, from tailoring, to both sculpted and relaxed silhouettes and of course statement outerwear pieces.
The embellishment that we have seen throughout the season remained present on the runways this week, with Isabel Marant, Acne and Louis Vuitton being masters of this trend.
Delicate lingerie detailing was present throughout in all guises, from Miu Miu’s revealing layered styling and lace eveningwear to Balmain’s soft lace detailing.
Must-have items: Everything from Saint Laurent’s collection was gorgeous, but next season the gowns, coats and bangles will be wish list must-haves. Tailored jackets were used throughout the season to elevate every look, no matter the preferred fit. A personal favorite: The Row. Platform shoes are a must-have for this season and the next — a highlight, Valentino’s soaring 18-cm styles.
Impressions of the week: The collections in Paris this season were very strong, and the main themes and trends will definitely resonate strongly with our client.
Seville Chow, senior vice president, fashion at Lane Crawford
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent: Strong Le Smoking ’90’s collection with sophisticated, long languid silhouettes. This season, I felt the high glamour of Saint Laurent with its lush faux fur, silky satins, and beautiful sheer fabrications, culminating in a highly sophisticated modern Parisian elegance that our customers can be transported to. We love the exaggerated bangles that were also showcased, and it was a pleasant surprise to hear a music track from Hong Kong Cantonese singer Shirley Kwan.
Rick Owens: His elongated silhouettes with a highlight of sequins caught a bit of old glamour. There are strong elements of outerwear from the constructed tailor coat, to oversized puffer jackets, to floor-length cape as well as cropped and shrunken jackets, and his signature bias-cut skirts.
Alaïa: A beautiful and modern collection from Pieter Mulier that stayed true to the brand DNA, but with a fresh twist, showcasing silhouettes of body-transforming dresses, single-leg jumpsuits and knitted dresses that embraced feminine strength. This season, the brand showcased a fantastic outerwear offering, which was fresh and new in the Tailoring category.
Best show format: The message was clear at Balenciaga — it showed solidarity with Ukraine. Demna showed the entire world how to use its fashion platform to drive home an important message: “a dedication to fearlessness, to resistance, and to the victory of love and peace.”
Top trends: Strong-shouldered tailoring, especially with ornate lace on cocktail dresses — a new take on chic seen in Balmain. Tube/column dresses as seen in the collections by Loewe, Valentino and Saint Laurent. Statement outerwear (bold colors, patterns, textures) were seen at Sacai, Balenciaga and Rick Owens. Statement shoes like Flamingo handbag-inspired booties as seen at Loewe, platform/high-top sneakers as seen at Balmain. Soft padded clutch bags as seen at Loewe, and Valentino’s Roman Stud.
Must-have items: Sacai belted Empire waist tailored bustier. Loewe denim ankle booties. Loewe padded Flamingo clutch.
New talents: Meryll Rogge, semifinalist of the LVMH Prize 2022, and Connor Ives — with his whimsical patchwork fabrics, punchy colors and collection inspired by style icons.
Impressions of the week: It was energizing to see the brands that are back on the show calendar prior to 2020, in terms of the scale of the production. The vibrancy and the excitement of the front row attendance list reminds us how exciting fashion is. However, it comes at a time with the events unfolding in Ukraine, which saw a number of brands standing in solidarity. It was both humbling and inspiring to see.
Libby Page, senior market editor at Net-a-porter
Favorite collection: The Valentino show was stunning, the Pink PP Pantone shade that took over the entire venue and most of the looks provided a well-needed optimistic pop of color — and we are thrilled that the platforms look to continue to be a huge hit. We also loved the Loewe collection, from the mesh dresses to the silver bow heels. And Paris wouldn’t be Paris without incredible collections by Saint Laurent, featuring powerful tailoring and eveningwear, Chloé bringing the cozy layering and Isabel Marant’s buttery leather boots and chunky bombers.
Best show format: Demna’s Balenciaga show was an incredible homage to Ukraine, set in a somber snowy snow globe runway.
Top trends: The fact that the only two colorways Valentino had in the show were the Pink PP shade and black truly signifies that “black is back.” From eveningwear looks to tailoring to leathers, I am personally thrilled to have the monochrome look firmly back on the agenda for the season.
And suitably apt for the City of Love — pinks and reds in all the hues heralded the “Look of Love” trend firmly arriving for fall 2022 via Stella’s slinky bubble-gum-pink dress paired with lilac boots, and Loewe bringing it in multiple shades and silhouettes.
And of course — Y2K is here to stay.
Must-have items: I loved the silver bow shoes and puffy Goya bag by Loewe, and of course Valentino’s pink platforms.
Lisa Aiken, fashion and lifestyle director at Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: The Saint Laurent show was an incredible statement, which was equal parts a tribute to Monsieur Saint Laurent himself and the unflinchingly modern and precise vision Anthony has for the house. The show concept for Balenciaga was incredibly powerful; however, we were so impressed to see the collection in the showroom, which was so strong. We loved Valentino, and the clients that joined us in the showroom for the re-see agreed. And The Row returned to the Paris schedule with a beautiful collection that as always, was impeccably styled but also worked as items on the shop floor. We are excited about what the future holds for Courrèges as the collection develops from the archive and beyond. And though not a formal presentation, the collection at Schiaparelli was stand-out, the creative vision and plans for the house are exceptional, it is one of the most exciting things happening in luxury fashion right now.
Best show format: It is hard to overstate the impact of the Balenciaga show, from the strong message of support for Ukraine across social media to the personal message Demna shared and of course, the very powerful show itself. Demna and Balenciaga continue to astound with creativity and sensitivity to global issues from global warming to geopolitical headlines.
Trendspotting: Paris delivered on dramatic, emotional fashion from sculptural tailoring to saturated pops of color, tough luxe textures with an abundance of leather, shearling and faux fur and an almost vintage approach to glamour.
Must-have items: A leather jacket or Le Smoking from Saint Laurent, something in pink from Valentino and the heart plexi pump from Alaïa.
Buying process: It’s great to have the buying team here in Europe for the first time in two years, though we are taking a mix of virtual and in-person showroom appointments depending on the individual brand setup. In scouting emerging talent, the physical return of multibrand showrooms certainly gives a renewed sense of conviction.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Paris was rife with collections we loved for many reasons.
Saint Laurent was a favorite as an epitome of a type of soigné glamour that only the French can project so seemingly effortlessly. Balenciaga’s deeply personal and reflective show and collection felt both prescient and in-tune, with its worn-out, toughened, survival upcycled dressing. We were drawn into the dreamland and fantasy couture at Rick Owens. It was a more romantic and softened Rick without losing any of his edge and extraordinary creativity. The Valentino V stood for vivacious and vivid. The new PP Pink is already unforgettable, and the monochromatic looks allowed you to focus on form and detail; sporty riffs playing against couture refs. The Row was another extraordinary collection and presentation in their new uber chic Paris “home” set up with personally meaningful pieces of art and furniture. The clothes and accessories reached a new height of modern luxury.
Schiaparelli was a highlight of Paris. Daniel Roseberry is proving to be a young master and his ingenious plays on the surreal house codes are simply incredible. Loewe, Sacai and Dries Van Noten were also fantastic collections for us. Clearly, we liked a lot in Paris this week.
Best show format: Numerous show formats were as extraordinary as the collections they were designed to stage. The harsh and unrelenting cold world and moving personal show note written in anguish and solidarity from Georgian-born Demna was another unforgettable Balenciaga presentation. Saint Laurent set a high bar and opened the week in Paris with the utmost Parisian collection, styling and setting with the shimmering Tour Eiffel as a backdrop. Dries Van Noten’s personal tours through a semi-abandoned 18th-century decaying beauty of a building was cinematic and beautifully imperfect. Hearing directly from the designer as he spoke to the references for his eclectic and gorgeously mixed collection won’t be easy to forget. Stella McCartney’s brilliant morning show set high in the Pompidou showcased both fashion, art and the city itself. Off-White was memorable for its incredibly expressed tribute collection to Virgil Abloh. The casting, the music, the mix of people, all conspired to being a moving moment of unity in fashion.
Trendspotting: Couture influences seen in sculptural volumes, updates on tailoring, the power of black, futurism/our best techno selves, tough elegance à la “The Matrix,” wake-up color, monochrome dressing, hourglass curves, textures and fur-like materials, head-to-toe leather.
Must-have items: The Capeback, strong shoulders, plateau platforms and over-the-knee boots, something emotional, extreme or surreal, exterior bustier or corset details.
Budgets: Now that we’re attending more markets in person, we’re writing more confidently and orders are more robust than when written remotely.
New talent: We’ve made great use of the LVMH Prize showroom platform, as well as the well-stocked multivendor showrooms. We’re grateful for their curations.
Arielle Siboni, ready-to-wear fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: There’s a lot to love when it comes to Paris Fashion Week as designers embraced a return to the runways; collections from Valentino, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Miu Miu, Isabel Marant and Balenciaga were clear standouts.
Trendspotting: The bomber has cemented itself as the must-have jacket of the season. We’re also seeing moto-inspired styles, a love for all things leather, catsuits, sheer layers, strong shoulders, and oversized outerwear and suiting in rtw. Monochromatic dressing continues as a top trend, often expressed through pops of pink or head-to-toe black. Leaning into nostalgia, accessories like thigh-high boots paired with micro minis, and hobo bags were prominent this season.
Must-have items: Isabel Marant’s bombers in an array of colors, Miu Miu’s skirt suits and embellished jackets, Saint Laurent’s oversized outerwear stole the show over eveningwear, and Valentino’s pink tailoring were all key players this season. Plus, the Saint Laurent bracelets, Chloé hikers, Stella McCartney Western boots and Coperni handblown glass swipe bag will be absolute must-have accessories for the months to come.
Impressions of the week: As always, Paris Fashion Week delivers a heightened sense of creativity, with brands like Loewe and Givenchy making nods to freshness, novelty and craft. The overall color palette leaned into two categories that are bold in their own ways: an affinity for black as the dominant color and head-turning brights. But, while the world remains complicated, we can often find ourselves leaning towards a sense of ease when it comes to the way we dress. Collections that were grounded in minimalism resonated well and continued the sense that fashion acts as armor for everyday life.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue
Favorite collections: Demna’s show for Balenciaga was powerful, emotional, and moving in every sense. From Demna’s personal note sharing his own journey as a refugee to the T-shirts on each chair at the show in the colors of the Ukraine flag, this collection is one that we will all be speaking about for years to come. The Off-White show was a moving tribute and celebration of Virgil Abloh, showcasing the last collection that he worked on with his team. The launch of Off-White couture was breathtaking, unexpected and provided a beautiful vision for the future of Off-White. Saint Laurent was effortlessly chic, refined and elegant. Anthony Vaccarello’s approach of “less is more” felt right. The tailored coats, leather jackets and faux-fur coats layered over slinky slipdresses were a highlight against the Eiffel Tower. At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vibrant and bold color play of hot pink and black in monochromatic looks brought joy and were an instant mood lift. The collection was vast and showed the scale of how many looks one color could translate into. Other standouts of the week were Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Isabel Marant.
Best show format: Balenciaga
Top trends: Key trends included the hard and soft play of structured tailored items over soft slips and skirts, the new tailoring with new takes on suits, the long skirt, bold and statement outerwear, sky-high platforms, and statement crystal jewelry.
Must-have items: A piece of statement outerwear layered over an effortless slipdress from Saint Laurent.
New talent: Kenneth Ize and Meryll Rogge.
Impressions of the week: In times of crisis and chaos, it is inspiring to see our community come together and use the runway as a place to express their voices. Demna for Balenciaga dedicated his show to fearlessness, resistance and the victory of love and peace; Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino offered love, support and acknowledgment for the people of Ukraine, and Matthew Williams for Givenchy encouraged his show attendees to help those in need and to never forget how lucky we are to be living in peace. Thank you to all of the designers and their teams, the stylists, the models, the makeup and hairstylists, the creatives and all of the photographers for a moving and unforgettable week in Paris.
Nathalie Lucas-Verdier, general merchandise director, women’s rtw, accessories, luxury and shoes at Printemps
Favorite collections: Loewe’s surrealistic show was a breath of fresh air of unlimited creativity. Jonathan Anderson never disappoints and confirmed this season again his amazing creative vision. At Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice delivered a beautiful, strong and super-attractive collection that is now a complete head-to-toe wardrobe with some of the most coveted items of the season. Valentino was a strong and saturated show with a focus on all shades of pink, a pure moment of poetry and love. Miu Miu delivered this season as well a strong silhouette aligned with its historical DNA. Miuccia is back and couldn’t please us more.
Best show format: No one this week could compete with the strength of the Balenciaga show. We all felt powerless enjoying the beauty of the shows while the situation a few kilometers away was so heartbreaking. Demna had the right way to deliver the thoughts of us all.
Trendspotting: Strong tailoring and a sexy vibe were still prominent in Paris. We saw a lot of strong shoulders and jackets were a key trend of Paris, as well. A play on hard versus soft like at Saint Laurent, with the combo of muslin dresses and structured jackets and coats. Another strong silhouette is a cargo/oversized pant with a tight embellished top. We saw some dark total looks, but also colorful silhouettes with bright shades.
Must-have items: Balloon bomber from Loewe, cargo and oversized pants (Isabel Marant, Givenchy), padded bags and outerwear, platform shoes and over-the-knee boots, crescent bags.
Budgets: Up, especially with emerging designers.
New talent: Coperni delivered a super appealing show syncretizing Gen Z and “Euphoria” fans. Ludovic de Saint Sernin was extremely strong with great casting and powerful key looks like the brown shirt dress. Minuit with its sexy sheer tops combined with cutout and miniskirts created strong silhouettes for party looks.
Impressions of the week: Milan was extremely directional, but also positive and joyful. Paris was more eclectic in terms of mood and trends reflecting the diversity of Paris Fashion Week and its ability to launch young talents.
Tiffany Hsu, vice president, womenswear and kidswear, fashion buying at Mytheresa
Favorite collections: The Paris collections were very strong. Amongst my personal favorites were Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, The Row, Rick Owens and Miu Miu.
Best show formats: Balenciaga was a powerful tribute to Ukraine — it was beyond impressive and moving. I also loved Loewe‘s surrealistic set featuring the giant squashes by British sculptor Anthea Hamilton.
Top trends: Most prevalent trends in Paris were platform and wedge heels, body-con silhouettes and colored tights and bodysuits.
Must-have item: The double-breasted Saint Laurent coat.
Impressions of the week: Although everyone was so glad to be back in Paris and to attend actual physical events and shows the current political situation did create a heavy mood filled with uncertainty.
Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying for Ssense
Favorite collection: Rick Owens, Acne Studios, Miu Miu, Balenciaga, Kwaidan Editions, The Row, and Dries Van Noten were my favorites.
Best show format: Balenciaga staging, theatrics and overall energy, Dries Van Noten’s exhibition and creative short videos, and the seating arrangement at Acne Studios really stood out for me.
Top trends: Eclectic styling at Prada and Miu Miu, combining luxurious embellished fabrications mixed with distressed leather jackets. Elevated everyday-wear such as shirting and intricate cashmere sweaters from The Row, velvet items from Jil Sander, and elevated denim at Givenchy and Dries Van Noten. Upcycling and clashing prints at Marine Serre and Acne Studios. Menswear references we’ve become accustomed to seeing such as boxy blazers, oversized polos, ties and suiting trousers.
Must-have items: Kwaidan Editions’ look 10, baby blue double-breasted blazer; embellished leather jacket, Miu Miu, look 51; overlay ivory coat Rick Owens, look one; long baby-rib black dress Balenciaga, look seven, and Acne Studios, look 29, with distressed long sleeves.
Budgets: Up
New talent: We’re excited to be picking up LVMH semifinalist SS Daley for fall 2022 at Ssense.
Impressions of the week: It was nice to experience Paris Fashion Week in person after two years and interact IRL with the brands and products.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collection: Paris fashion week kicked off with a fantastic tribute to Virgil Abloh’s final collection for Off-White. The conceptual presentation of the collection had us “questioning everything” as we went into the remainder of the week. The finale of couture pieces was truly show-stopping!
JW Anderson continues to push boundaries at Loewe with kink motifs anchoring key pieces of the collection. We loved the surrealist elements of the designs along with the whimsy of the accessories.
Gabriela Hearst’s vision for Chloé as a leading designer brand with sustainability at the forefront continues to impress. We are excited by the bags and footwear from the collection.
The pink parade from Valentino with every look made unique through different textures, fabrications, and silhouettes. You better like pink this fall because it will be everywhere!
Best show format: Demna Gvasalia’s moving Balenciaga collection was a powerful commentary on what is happening in the world today. The Dries Van Noten presentation at the Hotel de Guise was an impeccable representation of the collection.
Top trends: Reworked men’s inspired tailoring from Sacai and Givenchy; Luxe leathers in RTW shoes and bags from Chloé, Givenchy, and Valentino; Skin is in with sheer overlays and lingerie details at Valentino, Balmain, Miu Miu, and Saint Laurent. Special mention goes to Miu Miu for continuing the success of their spring collection and injecting men’s and gender-fluid pieces into this fall collection
Must-have items: The platform is back as seen in PP Pink at Valentino; faux fur coat from Saint Laurent; the neon Balenciaga double shoe bag; a recycled cashmere Chloé knit poncho; Givenchy leather cargo pants; Chanel logo rubber rain boots; and the men’s capsule pieces from Miu Miu
Budgets: Budgets remain flat for the season.
New talent: We are energized to see the talent coming from the LVMH Prize semi-finalists. After two years of buying virtually, we are also excited to discover new brands in the Paris showrooms like Kassel and Lisa Yang.
Impressions of the week: Paris delivered an exceptional week of high-impact fashion that will have everyone excited for what’s to come for next fall! As the world watched global events unfold, what resonated through the week between our fellow retailers, designers and press was a sentiment of resilience and strength. As we wrap up the season, we are encouraged to see product that will bring hope and optimism to the customer.