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Q4 2024 Designer Brands Inc Earnings Call

In This Article:

Participants

Dustin Hauenstein; Senior Vice President, Finance; Designer Brands Inc

Douglas Howe; Chief Executive Officer, Director; Designer Brands Inc

Jared Poff; Chief Financial Officer, Executive Vice President, Chief Administrative Officer; Designer Brands Inc

Mauricio Serna Vega; Analyst; UBS Group AG

Presentation

Operator

Good day, and welcome to the Designer Brands Inc fourth quarter 2024 earnings call. (Operator Instructions) Please note, this event is being recorded. I would now like to turn the conference over to Dustin Hauenstein, Senior Vice President of Finance. Please go ahead.

Dustin Hauenstein

Good morning. Earlier today, the company issued a press release comparing results of operations for the 13-week and 52-week periods ended February 1, 2025, to the 14-week and 53-week period ended February 3, 2024. Please note that the financial results that we will be referencing during the remainder of today's call excludes certain adjustments recorded under GAAP unless specified otherwise. For a complete reconciliation of GAAP to adjusted earnings, please reference our press release.
Additionally, please note that remarks made about the future expectations, plans and prospects of the company constitute forward-looking statements. Results may differ materially due to the various factors listed in today's press release and the company's public filings with the SEC. The company assumes no obligation to update any forward-looking statements.
Joining us today are Doug Howe, Chief Executive Officer; and Jared Poff, Chief Financial Officer. Now let me turn the call over to Doug.

Douglas Howe

Good morning, and thank you, everyone, for joining us. I'd like to begin by saying a special thank you to our associates for their continued hard work and dedication to Designer Brands throughout the year. We were pleased to return to positive comps in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2024 for the first time in nine quarters, as results improved throughout the year with our transformation taking a greater hold.
In the fourth quarter, given the inclusion of the 53-week last year, we saw a 5% year-over-year decline in total sales. Excluding the 53 week, our comps were up 1%. For the full year, total company sales were down roughly 2% to last year and comps were down 1.7%, in line with our revised guidance.
We also delivered full year adjusted EPS of $0.27 at the upper end of our revised guidance range of $0.10 to $0.30. As I reflect upon our performance this year, the improvement we saw was a direct result of our commitment to executing on those initiatives within our control.
This included decisive actions to refresh our leadership team, revitalize and modernize our assortment, optimize our marketing, right size our brand portfolio organization and continuously improve our customers' omnichannel experience.
Over the last year and a half, we've updated our leadership team, naming a new President of DSW, a new Brand President and new Chief Marketing Officer and a new Head of Merchandising to reinvigorate our teams, implement new ways of working and bring in expertise we were previously lacking.
We've also made considerable progress in revitalizing our assortment. We ended 2024 with a more relevant and balanced assortment that includes more athleisure than ever before, increasing our penetration by 5-percentage-points and grabbing market share. We also rekindled and expanded our relationship with our top brand partners, deepening the number of styles offered with key brands to build an eye-catching in-store and online selection.
Our top eight brands remain a primary driver of positive performance with sales of those brands up 25% on a full year basis. On the marketing front, this year, we leaned into the holiday season more than ever, focusing on giftable items. Black Friday, Cyber Monday and a well-timed post-holiday sale helped generate buzz, capture consumer interest, and maintain strong momentum beyond the season.
Additionally, we enhanced the customer experience, leading with overt holiday messaging and strategic collaborations allowed us to establish our stores as a gifting destination. A holiday assortment had an impactful visual presence with impressive and intention grabbing gift-giving collateral.
Within our brand portfolio organization, we remain focused on cost reduction, brand optimization, higher product margins and improved SKU productivity through streamlined operations. I'm pleased to share that we successfully delivered on these goals driving top line growth and margin expansion.
Let's quickly review some of the financial highlights from the fourth quarter and full year. Starting with our Retail businesses. In US Retail, we were pleased to post comps up 1% in the fourth quarter, reflecting a return to positive comps for the first time since the third quarter of 2022, driven by strength in athletic, women's dress and luxury, accessories, and kids. According to Circana data, DSW sales growth versus last year outpaced the footwear market in the fourth quarter resulting in a 10-basis point gain of footwear market share versus last year for DSW.
Sales for the quarter were down 7%, primarily due to the impact of the 53-week last year. For the full year, US Retail comps were down a little over 1%, driven by weaknesses in seasonal. We saw strength in a number of categories throughout the year, such as athletic, women's affordable luxury and kids. Sales for the year were down roughly 3%, driven by the impact of the 53 week and the decline in comps.
In Canada, fourth quarter comps were up 5% driven by strong performance in most categories, led by athletic and kids. Sales were up over 7% to last year. For the full year, comps were down 2% due to similar trends we saw in the US, strong athletic, casual and kids’ performance, which was offset by weakness in seasonal and dress. Sales were up 7% to last year, primarily as a result of adding Rubino to our store footprint.
Turning to our Brand Portfolio segment. For the fourth quarter, sales were up approximately 12%. For the full year, sales were up roughly 14%. In 2024, we were able to reach operating profitability in this segment for the first time as our brand's President, Andrea's initiative to reset the business have proven successful, and we believe have set this business up for continued profitable growth into the future.
For the year, we expanded our gross margin by 100 basis points, and reduced our segment operating expenses by nearly 700 basis points. The combination of the two has led to a significant improvement in operating margin.
Operationally, our adoption rate of design proposals has increased from roughly 20% historically to 50% for our fall 2025 collection. We expect for this to continue to increase over time. On the product side, we are excited to have seen continued growth in Topo Athletic and Jessica Simpson. Both brands have been significantly outperforming expectations throughout the year. For the year, Topo was up nearly 80% and Jessica was up over 20% in wholesale sales.
As we move forward in 2025, we believe our ongoing business transformation will drive continued stabilization and improvement of sales and profitability, with expectations to significantly increase our adjusted EPS compared to 2024 results.
Let me spend a few minutes discussing our strategic focus areas for 2025. In our Retail segment, we will use the pillars of customer and product to guide our focus. First and foremost, we are placing an even more deliberate focus on being customer first in everything we do.
Leveraging insights and advanced analytics to refine the DSW brand identity and positioning, update our target customer segmentation and enhanced marketing tactic effectiveness. We've executed both qualitative and quantitative research and are embedding the focus into the organization in real time.
In 2025, we'll be able to better understand what drives our most valuable customers and where and how we can acquire more of them. We will continue to evolve our brand positioning throughout 2025, which we believe will be exciting for our loyal customers as well as newcomers. We will also be revisiting our robust VIP rewards program, which represents roughly 90% of our transactions. We'll be transforming VIP rewards and perks with an aim to relaunch the program in early 2026.
Additionally, we intend to continue evolving our approach to promotions and discounts to help serve customers searching for value. To this end, our semiannual sales will continue to evolve as it becomes a more important promotional event to DSW.
We will also continue to evolve our omnichannel customer experience in ways that are intended to drive both value for consumers and improved financial results. We will continue to enhance our in-store selection and displays, a key differentiator when it comes to the in-person shopping experience that drives over 70% of our sales.
We'll also be adding DSW net new stores to our fleet for the first time since 2019, expanding access to product and aligning with population migration. In addition, we are rolling out simple tech-enabled shoe fitting services and post-purchase protective shoe cleaning, which we believe will provide points of differentiation for our brand and incremental margin in 2025. We look forward to sharing updates on these and other initiatives across the course of the year that we expect to drive profitable omnichannel growth.
Our next strategic pillar for 2025 is a continuation of our assortment revitalization journey. This year, we are further enhancing our product offering through a data-driven approach that we expect to drive improved inventory availability and productivity. We are rationalizing unproductive product, which will allow us to amplify our investments in key items and top-selling products. We are also optimizing our inventory allocation and digital order management to improve product availability across our network.
We expect these enhancements to directly drive increases to in-stock rates, improved conversion on store traffic and lower fulfillment costs for digital orders. These efficiencies are expected to build over the course of the year.
As we look to our Brands segment for 2025, we have outlined a number of ways we expect to deliver growth, notably reestablishing our private label brands as margin drivers and building a more profitable wholesale business, which includes investing in core names like Keds and Topo to drive top line revenue.
Our private label brands are those only sold at DSW, including Kelly & Katie, Mix No. 6 and Crown Vintage. All have a position of strength within key DSW women's categories, and we plan to leverage these strengths to grow our top line and drive margins for the business. Given our control over the design and production of these brands, we deliver over 1,500 basis points of incremental margin rate above our national brands, which drives our overall margin.
Private label brands currently penetrate at less than 20% of DSW sales and we believe this has the opportunity to expand in the future. As Andrea mentioned last year, we are also in the process of advancing our brand and product strategy for our wholesale brands, such as Vince Camuto, Lucky and Jessica Simpson.
Additionally, we will continue to invest in Topo and kids, two well-positioned brands with strong heritage, growth potential and solid distribution. In the short term, we are focused on rebuilding the foundation of Vince Camuto and Lucky. We have a number of initiatives in place, which include a new marketplace strategy, growing new channels of distribution, diversifying product assortment, and leading into growing categories like casual for Lucky and dress for Vince Camuto.
Jessica Simpson is another brand that is well positioned to continue to capitalize on the resurgence of the dress in the marketplace, which we aim to leverage by offering a strong assortment and delivering great value to consumers in this growing category.
We plan to continue to invest in fueling growth in our Topo Athletic and Keds brands. Both brands are uniquely positioned within the portfolio, have compelling heritage, and are situated in growing categories. They already have access to excellent distribution and are delivering strong operational income contribution to the segment.
At Topo specifically, we remain energized by the outsized growth potential the brand represents. Today, Topo represents over 10% of our total brand portfolio sales and grew over 70% in 2024. We anticipate another year of growth in 2025 driven by a strategic approach to distribution within the core specialty running area, strong product launches, and increasing investment in marketing to establish key franchise items, drive volume and overall, build the brand with a strong reputation.
Our strategy to reposition the Keds brand for growth in 2025 is critical to building a healthy and sustainable brand. We will work to reposition ourselves in the comfort casual category, target the Gen X and above customer who already know and trust the brand and add new technology-infused athleisure offerings powered by our exclusive BlissWalk technology.
We are seeing positive results from this evolved product already and are excited about expanding this approach in 2025. We believe that we will see double-digit growth over time with gross margin improvement as well.
Before I conclude, I want to share a few thoughts on our 2025 guidance. While we do not expect a material impact on our business from currently anticipated tariff policies, we have seen our consumers being more cautious starting in the back half of January as a result of ongoing inflation, rising prices, and less discretionary income. This was a marked change from the trends we were seeing exiting December, and we recognize that uncertainty remains as they continue to be selective with their discretionary income. As such, we are leaning into initiatives to drive demand and value.
On balance, we expect to post positive comps for the full year as well as meaningful operating income growth for the year. We anticipate quarterly performance will improve gradually as we move through the year. Jared will discuss this more in a moment.
I want to reiterate how pleased I am with our team's execution and unwavering dedication as we continue our transformational journey. I'm confident the strategies we are employing are the right ones to support long-term value creation for DBI.
With that, I'll turn it over to Jared. Jared?