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It may be wiser for Pernod Ricard to hang on to Mumm Champagne
A cork from a Mumm Champagne bottle · Just Drinks · Ekaterina_Minaeva / Shutterstock.com

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As Valentine’s Day beckons, it seems that Pernod Ricard’s on-off love affair with Champagne has become a little toxic, with the news – tacitly confirmed by dependable sources – that it is considering the sell-off of Mumm.

Indeed, it seems that the couple have already sought the corporate equivalent of relationship counselling: according to Reuters, Pernod has enlisted investment bank Rothschild & Co. to “explore options”. That doesn’t mean that any deal is imminent or inevitable but, if your partner tells you they’re seriously considering throwing you out of the house, it doesn’t exactly fill you with optimism either.

How did it come to this? Most of Pernod’s wine assets – including Jacob’s Creek, Brancott Estate and Campo Viejo – were sold off last year. Having resisted years of speculation concerning such disposals, now it looks as if the company might have acquired a taste for it.

The Champagne brands, along with Kenwood in California and Sainte Marguerite in Provence, were thought to be immune to this logic, their fatter margins imbuing them with qualities closer to luxury spirits than wine.

Now, however, Mumm may be surplus to requirements at Pernod Ricard, but not stablemate Perrier-Jouët. Compare and contrast the relative market positions of those brands and that’s hardly surprising. It may have less than half the volumes of Mumm, but PJ has much more enticing luxury credentials: strong positions in the US and Japan; flagship prestige cuvée Belle Epoque.

Looking at Mumm in the longer term, I wonder if Pernod Ricard has ever decided exactly what it wants from the brand, or fully committed to putting those desires into practice.

The late Patrick Ricard – uncle of current chairman and CEO Alex Ricard – once proclaimed that he had no interest in owning a Champagne house. But Patrick Ricard was a canny entrepreneur who always favoured pragmatism over dogma; when the French group took control of Mumm and PJ via the Allied Domecq acquisition in 2005, he said he was happy because his sales teams had been demanding a Champagne. “If you don’t have one, you’re leaving the field open to competitors,” he added.

By 2016, Pernod’s ambitions for Mumm had taken on an almost fantastical air, aiming to triple turnover and double volumes over the next decade, snapping at the heels of category leaders Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. In Champagne – where production is strictly limited and competition for grape contracts fierce – that always looked like one heck of a task.

If those ambitions were quietly shelved, efforts to premiumise Mumm, and to lessen its dependence on the cut-throat French market – historically responsible for more than half of its volumes – continued. However, price rises introduced during the post-Covid bubble of 2022-23 appear to have encountered resistance from an increasingly price-sensitive consumer base.