Macro Headwinds Don’t Dampen Spirits at Chicago Collective
Jean E. Palmieri and Luis Campuzano
17 min read
CHICAGO — The red flags are all unmistakable: a contentious election, stubborn inflation, higher interest rates and a rollicking stock market. But despite these challenges, retailers remained upbeat thanks to solid summer sales and early fall merchandise that’s already starting to move.
Vendors were similarly optimistic as they offered updates on their core styles to nudge the men toward more fashion-forward styles.
With that as the backdrop, the specialty stores that filled the aisles at the Chicago Collective men’s show last week were on the prowl for new patterns, fabrics, silhouettes and detailing on spring shirts, sport coats and pants that could tempt their customers to pick up a few new pieces to refresh their wardrobes.
Among the most popular choices were linen shirts, carrot-shaped pants and brightly patterned sport coats.
Retailers Weigh In
“Our business is still very strong and I think it will continue for fall. We’re firing on all cylinders,” said Dan Farrington, general merchandise manager of menswear for Mitchells Stores. Both tailored clothing and sportswear are selling and the company is focused on the November opening of a massive new Wilkes Bashford store in Palo Alto, Calif.
For that, and the company’s other storefronts — Mitchells, Richards and Marios — Farrington said he was “trying to navigate the whole fit evolution and decide what will work for our customer.” That includes carrot fits in pants and oversize jackets. “It’s tricky,” he said. Although it’s an opportunity to get men to update their wardrobes, “we can’t go too fashion — it feels like we just converted them to slimmer fits.”
At the Chicago show, Farrington said he was “on a mission” to find jeans, casual knits, bags and accessories.
Craig DeLongy of John Craig, which operates eight stores in Florida, said: “We’ve had a real good summer. We were up over 20 percent in July with markdowns down. And we’re excited for fall where we can integrate a lot of color.” Top sellers include sport coats and casual pants and the made-to-measure business is also up 8 percent.
At the show, DeLongy said he was looking for “something different” and pointed to Berwich linen pants and Daniele Fiesoli knitwear as standout brands.
Ken Giddon, president of Rothmans in New York, said that while he heard from other retailers that business began to soften in mid-June, his stores only experienced a minor slowdown as the first heat wave hit the city.
“But we’re excited about fall,” he said. “While the election is very much on everyone’s minds, people are still out attending fundraisers and parties which is far better than them staying home wearing masks.”
As a result, much of Rothmans’ business is “event driven,” Giddon said. “We do tons of business with kids going to their first jobs, and back-to-work is happening and guys realize they have to dress a little better.”
At the Collective, Giddon liked sportswear from Marine Layer and Road to Nowhere; Eterna, a German shirt brand; Fradi for casual jackets; Jack Victor’s luxury sportswear; 7 Downie St. sport coats; Fair Harbor; Rye 51; Johnnie-O, and new brand Duer.
Keith Kinkade of Kinkade’s Fine Clothing in Ridgeland, Miss., said even though there’s constant chatter about the upcoming presidential election, “it’s out of our control so we just have to go forward. We’re looking for a great holiday season when the election is done.”
He said sales are currently running even with last year and he’s anticipating a good fall — a season that represents 55 percent of his annual sales.
He said homecomings and weddings continue to boost business for Kinkade’s and he was shopping Stantt shirts, tailored clothing at Peerless, and jeans at 7 Diamonds.
Julie Lansky’s at Lansky’s in Memphis said her stores are prepping for their biggest bump of the year: Elvis week, slated for Aug. 9-17. Lansky’s bills itself as “Clothier to the King” for its history dressing the late rock ‘n’ roll icon and operates stores within the city’s famous Peabody Hotel.
“We realize there is an election, but it’s our job to sell the tourists,” she said. Her father, Hal Lansky, added: “We’re not in the retail business, we’re in the tourist business.” As a result, they were looking for items “with pizazz, glitz and sparkle,” he said.
Lindsay Morton Gaiser of Andrisen Morton in Denver said her business was up 11 percent through July and earnings are “significantly up versus last fall. I’m very optimistic and we’re planning to have another very good year where we are slightly up.”
For her store, it’s luxury brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna and other high-end Italian labels that are leading the way. Made-to-measure has also been popular. What connects with her customer, she said, is “anything curated, anything with a story behind it.” As a result, she spent time browsing the 62 Italian brands at the show for something “new, fresh and different” for spring as well as unique holiday gifts. “We fell flat in that category last year,” she said.
He said sales results are so strong for most brands he’s hoping to secure space to add to that count in the future. “We’ll increase the number if we can, but we have six new, emerging brands here this time.”
He said going forward, he also hopes to continue to enhance the visibility of the attendees by updating the group’s marketing efforts. “Italian means quality, craftsmanship and tradition,” he said, “which is very important with all the uncertainty in the world today. Customers are looking for sustainability, originality and storytelling. We need to consider the threat from fast-fashion companies like Shein and Temu so we’ll be changing things up next time.”
Vendors Are Similarly Upbeat
At the show, vendors were also upbeat and eager to show off their spring collections. Peter Leff, executive vice president of wholesale for Tommy Bahama, said the mood of his retail customers was good. “Most people had a really good June and while July was a little softer than a year ago, the customer is reacting to newness.”
For Tommy Bahama, that translates into a strong short-sleeve woven business as well as pieces with technological attributes in both tops and bottoms. At the same time, there’s also “an appetite for cotton,” he said.
Specifically, he said seersuckers and textured fabrics in both camp and polo shirts were popular as was yarn-dyed linen in both shirts and shorts.
Ryan Kent, president of Mizzen + Main, said 2023 was the best year in the company’s 12-year history. “We had strong growth in all channels and this year wholesale has been strongest for us.”
At the show, the brand found interest in its “hero product,” he said: long-sleeve button-down shirts. But as the company expanded into other categories over the past three years, he said, chinos and five-button pants have proven popular along with blazers which are now being offered in colors other than just navy.
“Overall, this year has been strong for the consumer and the economy, so even though there’s always a certain level of concern in an election year, we remain positive,” he said. “Our customer is working and he needs to look good at home, in the office or when he’s traveling. They’re going to be buying, and we hope it will be from Mizzen + Main.”
Dan Orwig, president of Peerless Clothing, said most of his retail customers are upbeat “but there’s still a lot of uncertainty with the inflationary pressures and an election year, so there’s definitely cautiousness out there.”
At Peerless, in addition to the company’s strong in-stock offerings, he’s also found interest in “layering on fashion,” such as the company’s linen and seersucker suits along with a wide range of soft sport coats which he said are a “great piece for them to continue to gain momentum.”
Show Wrapup
All in all, the Chicago Collective continues to be the must-attend show for men’s specialty stores. At this edition, the host, the Chicago Merchandise Mart, was able to secure another 33,000 square feet on a second floor of the building for another 68 brands. That floor was anchored by the Triluxe and M5 showrooms and their assortment of brands was deemed a success by both attendees and the Mart.
“There’s a totally different vibe but the brands all work together,” said Monique Kielar, vice president of marketing for the show. “When you bring in new brands, you don’t want a hodgepodge, so with Triluxe and M5 as the catalysts, it worked.”
Opening on Saturday at noon also worked, she said. Billed as a preview day that extended the show’s run to four days, 550 buyers registered on Saturday, Kielar said, making this another successful update. All told, the show attracted 1,845 buyers.
Standout Brands From the Show Floor
A look from Windsor’s spring collection.
Brand: Windsor
Designer: Tobias Harprecht
Backstory: The Switzerland-based brand traces its history to 1889 and since 2015 has been part of the Holy Fashion Group that includes Strellson and Joop. Its name derives from the fact that its founder sourced his fabrics from England and decided to name his brand after the historic U.K. town. Today, Windsor creates relaxed tailoring pieces for both men and women using high-end textiles and sophisticated detailing. The brand, which operates 10 of its own stores and counts more than 200 wholesale accounts around the world, was already well known in Europe and entered the North American market four seasons ago.
Key pieces: The spring collection offers a strong hybrid assortment of pieces such as a cotton sport coat, linen and wool overjackets in either single- or doubled-breasted models, linen lyocell sport coats with stretch, plaid or herringbone sport coats, knit polos and piece-dyed wool blazers. Much of the collection is sustainably based, using responsible down, mulesing-free wool and sustainable cotton.
Retail prices: Jackets sell for $995-$1,295, pants are $450 and the polo shirts are $295.
Cortigiani was founded 30 years ago in Italy.
Brand: Cortigiani
Designer: Roberto Ziero
Backstory: The Italian brand was founded 30 years ago and is still controlled by the original owners, Ziero and Donato Checchin. In order to heighten its exposure in the U.S., the company signed on with ODVision, a New York-based showroom, to rep the collection here. Like many Italian brands, Cortigiani was originally established as a third-party knitwear manufacturer in the early ’80s on the outskirts of Padova in Italy’s Veneto region. Today, the brand is perhaps best known for its outerwear, which combines sartorial aesthetics with performance attributes.
Key pieces: Although knitwear is still a staple in the line, Cortigiani now offers a full assortment of what Evan D’Addario, vice president of ODVision, called “sartorial sportswear.” Key items for spring include a down vest with a suede undercollar, a suede safari jacket, a cotton polo shirt with a contrast striped collar or a dual cotton collared polo in silk and cotton. There is also a baseball-style jacket with a covered placket and leather undercollar, linen pants and stretch wool pants with blazers to match that can be worn separately or as an updated suit.
Retail prices: Suede jackets sell for $5,000, soft blazers are $2,000 to $2,500 and polos are $550.
Amundsen was created for the outdoors enthusiast.
Brand: Amundsen Sports
Backstory: The brand is based on the legacy of the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, who set out to conquer the South Pole in 1911. Earlier, on a Northwest Passage expedition, he had lived with the native Inuits and got first-hand knowledge on cold weather survival. Fast forward nearly 100 years and one of his descendants, industrial designer Jorgen Amundsen, began to question how people dress for their outdoor activities. So he approached his childhood friend Erik Friis about creating a brand that could withstand the harshest elements but would also allow nature lovers to just get outside and have fun. Together, they founded Amundsen Sports in Oslo, Norway in 2009, with a mission to “develop smart products inspired by the past and built for the future with advanced technical features and state-of-the-art materials.”
Key pieces: The spring collection is based on three pillars: linen, cotton and pigment-dyeing. Among the standout pieces is the Cloudburst Anorak, a paper-thin 100 percent polyester pullover made from ultralight Japanese waterproof fabric with fully taped seams that is also breathable. There are Ditch-Hiker shorts in a cotton twill with a drawstring elastic waist offered with a matching jacket in 97 percent BCI cotton and 3 percent elastane; Vagabond pants in cotton-linen that offers Cordura reinforcements on the shins and backside; a 5 Mila half-zip in wool and polyamide that offers sweat wicking and moisture wicking, Field shorts and slacks made from Cordura with waxed cotton canvas reinforcements, and an enzyme washed cotton drill Adventure vest inspired by reporters and photographers of the ’50s with 12 pockets and compartments.
Retail prices: The Cloudburst anorak is $439, the Ditch-Hiker shorts are $229 and the jacket is $279, the 5 Mila half-zip is $119 and the Adventure vest is $499.
A sport coat from TailoRed.
Brand: TailoRed
Backstory: Although Peerless Clothing is best known as the largest men’s and boys’ tailored clothing manufacturer in North America with licenses from everyone from Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein to Michael Kors and Shaquille O’Neal, it also manufactures its own collection under the TailoRed name. The collection, which uses Italian fabrics from mills such as Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna and Reda, is billed as an upscale fashion clothing collection designed to appeal to style conscious men of all ages.
Key styles: Some 75 percent of the collection, which is manufactured in the Peerless factory in Montreal, is sport coats. While solids are offered, the majority of the line features intricate patterns and colors for the “peacocks” of the men’s world, according to Peerless president Dan Orwig. The brand’s soft shoulder, half lined, patch pocket sport coat is the star of the spring line. The collection highlighted a new double-breasted model with a wide lapel that was a hit with the retailers at the show. Using variations of wool, silk and linen, “these blends allow for a beautiful mixture of texture and dimension with saturated rich colors,” Orwig said. “Color has been the key, whether in pattern or textured solids.”
Retail prices: The line offers three ranges that retail for $595, $695 or $795 depending upon the fabric.
Casual sportswear from Aurélien.
Brand: Aurélien
Designer: Philip Hetterschijt
Backstory: Inspired by timeless Italian style, Aurélien is a celebration of quiet luxury with a strong focus on artisanal craftsmanship. The label specializes in classic menswear staples in natural materials — notably suede, leather and cotton — that stand the test of time and gradually adapt to the wearer. Based in Amsterdam, the Dutch brand began with shoes, and apparel has quickly gained traction with its customer base. The company’s presence at the Chicago Collective marked Aurélien’s first foray into wholesale in the U.S. market, with the current business model focusing mainly online with one brick-and-mortar location in the Netherlands.
Key styles: For spring, the brand is focusing on both earth tones and pops of color, on items such as retro polos in cashwool, lightweight safari jackets in dark browns, as well as shirts in linen fabrications that have been particularly strong for the past two seasons for the brand.
Retail prices: Tops start at around $100-$250, outerwear pieces range from $600-$700, linen shirts come in at $170, and footwear styles start from $350-$460.
A look from Service Works.
Brand: Service Works
Backstory: Another newcomer to the Chicago Collective, the U.K. brand was established in the midst of the COVID-19 global pandemic in 2020 and stems from founder Tom Chaudley’s passion for both comfort and culinary excellence. Chaudley grew up and worked in family-run kitchens, a time when he found himself not only keeping his chef’s pants on to go out in but also to skate in. Service Works pays homage to this connection with a classic line mirroring traditional chef trousers but crafted from heavier, sustainably sourced organic fabrics, perfect for everyday wear. The brand’s eye-catching designs were a hit with Nordstrom, which began carrying the assortment in 40 locations in its debut season.
Key styles: The chef’s pant continues to be the star item for the brand, done in a light, kitchen-friendly polycotton with a wide leg and twin pleating. The collection also include short-sleeve shirts with embroidery details depicting kitchen utensils as well as wine bottle motifs and fish, and two-tone workwear jackets with multiple patch pockets.
Retail prices: Pants start at $99-$135, jackets sit at $175 and shirts cost $135.
Classic outerwear from Aquascutum.
Brand: Aquascutum
Backstory: Founded by John Emary and known as the originator of the classic trenchcoat, Aquascutum has been at the forefront of the industry for decades with its superior craftsmanship and technological innovation, and is credited with inventing the world’s first waterproof wool fabric. Its trenchcoats have been worn by political leaders, celebrities and even royalty ranging from Sir Winston Churchill and Baroness Thatcher to Humphrey Bogart. A newcomer to the Chicago Collective, the brand continues with its long-standing heritage pieces alongside an array of traditional sportswear and activewear staples ranging from knitwear and sweatshirts to updated bomber jackets.
Key styles: The brand’s classic brown trench remains a key piece this season, this time offered with updated details such as a tartan plaid underneath the collar. There are also tartan cardigan sweaters, classic sweatshirts with an oversized brand logo, updated bombers in a tartan plaid as well as a tan safari jacket.
Retail prices: The classic trench rings in at $1,298, logo sweatshirts are $238 and bombers are $678.
A look from 120% Lino featuring a hat collaboration with Italian hatmaker Borsalino.
Brand: 120% Lino
Backstory: Founded by Italian stylist Alberto Peretto, 120% Lino seeks to create elegant, naturally luxurious and timeless tailored pieces from linen. Since the brand’s launch about 35 years ago, it has remained focused on Italian craftsmanship and innovation using precious fibers, exclusive hand-painted prints, artisanal embroideries and embellishments. With linen as the undisputed star fabric in the collection, it is infused into blazers, shirts and knits for men as well as dresses, blouses and skirts for women. The range is enhanced through an innovative garment-dyeing process that ensures softness and allows for an endless spectrum of vibrant shades and tones. The brand has 13 stores in the U.S. ranging from Miami and Palm Beach to Nantucket and Maui.
Key styles: This season’s range focuses on hand-drawn prints on shirts, short-sleeve bowling shirts, pants with elasticized waistbands and drawstrings, safari jacket styles that mimic overshirts, and deconstructed soft blazers, all mainly done in linen and linen blends. This season also marks the brand’s first collaboration with the Italian luxury hat manufacturer Borsalino.
Retail prices: Shirts range from $295-$340, pants come in at $350-$375 and outerwear and blazer styles from $675-$795.
