Guess Inc.’s Nicolai Marciano on Balancing Heritage and Sustainability
Vicki M. Young
4 min read
Nicolai Marciano is a blue jeans kind-of-guy who has a very strong interest in sustainability and is also an expert at marketing to Gen Z consumers.
That combination, and as chief new business development officer for Guess Inc., makes him the perfect leader to oversee the roll-out of the company’s new men’s and women’s denim business Guess Jeans. It’s a role that also takes Marciano back to the company’s historical denim roots.
The son of Guess co-founder Paul Marciano, Nicolai is juggling multiple tasks from oversight of the build-out of wholesale accounts to opening brand-dedicated concept stores to ensuring the brand line incorporates vintage Guess elements from the 1980s. He is also checking off the boxes connected to sustainable elements in every feature of the jeans line.
“Sustainability and performance will play a large part in the dialogue,” Nicolai said about Guess Jeans.
Here, Nicolai shares his vision for Guess Jeans, the impact of Guess Airwash technology, and what’s coming up for the new denim brand.
Rivet: Guess Jeans utilizes Guess Airwash technology. How does Guess Airwash work?
Nicolai Marciano: What makes Guess Airwash technology, developed in collaboration with our longtime partners Jeanologia, unique compared to eco-finishing processes of the past is the special way we are using the combination of our machines—e-flow, ozone, and laser—to give an authentic vintage looking product that Guess has become famous for. We accomplish the stonewash look without any stones, up to 80 percent less water consumption, less manual processes for our workers, along with many other advantages we see in our actual production.
Every piece of denim in the Guess Jeans collection is processed with this technology. We are also introducing some other sustainable finishing and dye processes for other categories in our future collections which we are extremely excited about. We are committed to having every element from trims, labels to packaging carry some form of sustainability from using recycled materials, organic and regenerative fibers and toxic free inks.
Rivet: How differently does Guess Jeans think about sustainability compared with other products in the Guess Inc. assortment?
NM: Guess is committed to sustainability in a big way. For Guess Eco collection we have certain rules for the products to qualify, but with Guess Jeans we have taken the efforts much further down into every detail of the collection.
All fabrics must have a certain amount of organic, regenerative or recycled fibers, all metal hardware is up to 90 percent recycled alloy, all denim is processed through Guess Airwash, all packaging is 100 percent recycled paper, threads are made of recycled polyester and [we only use] PVC free inks.
Now that we have proven that it is possible to inject this level of eco-friendly processes and materials into a collection, we are pushing to continually improve these numbers with all our suppliers.
Rivet: Guess Jeans in May opened its first store in Amsterdam. A second store opened in Berlin in July. Describe the retail concept. What was your thinking in designing the visual identity for the brand?
NM: The Guess Jeans overall retail concept is rooted in the California landscape. A combination of materials, vegetation, and lights that all pay homage to Southern California—the birthplace of Guess—forms the basis of the Guess Jeans retail concept. Sustainable, interesting, and honest materials are at the very core of the retail design concept.
Our Melrose flagship store is scheduled to open early next year, and the Tokyo Guess Jeans flagship will launch in the spring. All the stores will be built out using similar materials and concept, but each store will have its own element of localization, specific to the city it is in. The Amsterdam store features blue tiling that pays homage to Delfts Blauw, chosen for both its narrative and its beauty.
In Berlin, we decided to focus on the world-famous U-Bahn…We particularly referenced the Rosenthaler Platz station and its orange tiles, applying them to fixtures and walls. Another homage to the famous underground system is a custom carpet which acts as flooring to the Guess Originals section of the store and mimics the very recognizable upholstery of the older subway trains. We will draw different inspiration in each city.
Rivet: Guess Jeans was recently featured as pop-ups at the Galleries Lafayette in France, as well in La Rinascente in Milan. Tell me about these installations and are more similar pop-ups planned?
NM: Supporting our wholesale partners has been a big focus for us since launching the brand. With the line being so new it’s been important for us to show up where we can, to help drive brand awareness around the Guess Jeans story. We’ve been using these pop-ups as an opportunity to tell the story of Guess Airwash.
Rivet: How do you plan to market Guess Jeans to grow its target customer base?
NM: Quality product, quality communication, and community building.