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Focusing on the Big Picture in New Delhi
Mayu Saini
5 min read
Texcon 2024, the annual conference organized by the Confederation of Indian Industries (CII), had a distinctly different feel from the prior year. Although the gathering of industry icons from across the country was still stellar, there was a palpable sense of optimism.
The cause for that was clear: textile and apparel exports which were stagnating the last two years have shown a sharp increase this last quarter. In addition, there appears to be a belief among manufacturers that U.S. president-elect Donald Trump will further help along the China plus one policy, providing a boost in sourcing to other countries. The unrest in Bangladesh, continuing after the ouster of prime minister Sheikh Hasina in June, appears to be opening up potential as well, although this is largely not being voiced in the interest of neighborly empathy.
The April to September six month period of exports for textile and apparel (the first six months of the financial year 2024-25), is up by 5.13 percent over the previous year, reaching $17.66 billion. Textile exports were up 2.76 percent to $10.15 billion while apparel exports grew much faster, up by 8.51 percent, reaching $7.50 billion, according to figures from the Ministry of Commerce and Trade.
Not only was the mood more upbeat, the conversations were far more honest and open—with less of a pretext that things were perfect and with a belief the 2030 target of $350 billion for the apparel and textile industry—with a $100 billion of that of exports—is actually achievable.
It was an earnest conversation about the theme of the conference: “Advancing India’s strategic pursuit for global leadership in textiles and apparel with a focus on sustainability.”
There were the oft-repeated points—the seven upcoming PM Mitra mega textile parks, their potential to upgrade the industry, and the PLI scheme. As Rachna Shah, secretary, ministry of Textiles noted, “These aim to streamline the value chain, attract 700 billion rupees in investments, and generate 700,000 direct jobs, with a strong focus on technical textiles and innovation. With rising demand across sectors like healthcare and infrastructure, this is India’s moment to lead globally, fostering sustainability, job creation and economic growth,” she said.
“We keep saying there are a lot of opportunities,” observed Sanjay K. Jain, managing director TT Limited, opening the door for dialogue and some honest reflection. “But we haven’t been growing for 10 years. Let’s understand what’s the real cause. Fiber is one reason. We need the same landed cost of fiber as Bangladesh, Vietnam and other places—how we protect our producers is a separate issue. That’s crucial for us to grow and increase our capacity.”
He spoke about other important measures. “Policies should be made for a minimum of five years. In order to break the cycle of high import duties, domestic protections and become a global force, we must focus on building a foundation of competitive raw materials, not just safeguarding farmers or producers at the expense of the entire value chain,” he said.
There were other suggestions, as well, as Prashant Agarwal, cofounder and partner Wazir Advisors noted, the need of the moment is to shift from low cost reliance to “stronger raw materials, better infrastructure and innovation.”
“With a $100 billion domestic market and strategic partnerships, India is thriving to reach a $1 trillion textile market by 2047. India’s textile industry is progressing towards global competitiveness, with significant growth. Key focus areas include expanding in sectors like denim and knitwear, tapping into new markets like Japan and Russia, and embracing automation and sustainability,” he said.
Textile waste remained an important item for discussion, and it was clear that the matter was being taken seriously. “Initiatives like Upcycling Mark and Post-Consumer Waste Management are significant steps towards environmental responsibility and sustainable growth, ensuring the textile sector adapts to evolving challenges while reducing carbon footprints and leading to job creation,” Kartikay Dhanda, secretary, Textiles committee, ministry of textiles said, while sharing the process of an ongoing project in the Mumbai area, which has been undertaken following the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding at Bharatex earlier this year.
Manmohan Singh, group executive president, Grasim Industries Limited of the Aditya Birla Group spoke about the need for a “focus on recycled fibers and promoting certifications.” However, it’s important that pricing must reflect sustainability efforts like carbon footprint reductions,” he said.
The impact of the changing global regulations was noted as well.
Anant Ahuja, director ESG and sustainability, Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd., said, “With the European legislation we are all trying to figure out what it means, how do we understand it,” noting some of the important traceability and due diligence measures being incorporated, as well as the bottlenecks. “Many mills still use coal, there are no good solutions yet. The coal supply chain is hundreds of years old, the biofuels chain is just emerging. For Shahi our requirement is hundreds of tons per day. We are feeling the pressure to step up, there are some very aggressive targets for 2025,” he said.
“Bold ideas, strong policies, and entrepreneurial spirit can make India a $100 billion export powerhouse. The next decade offers unparalleled promise—let’s seize it!” said Kulin Lalbhai, chairman, CII National Committee on Textile & Apparel and vice chairman, Arvind Limited.
