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For years, it was an acquired taste reserved for rugby-loving blokes in television-lined pubs.
But the soaring popularity – and price – of Guinness has been blamed on an unlikely new culprit: young women.
Landlords say the cost of a pint has increased around 25pc since 2020, with its popularity rocketing so much that pubs complain they are running dry of the stout. Reserves of the drink are being diverted from its native Ireland back to Britain to ease shortages.
The trend is being pinned on the fact that its low-calorie, low-alcohol content has made it fashionable with women. And its image has been bolstered by the likes of the Princess of Wales, and Kim Kardashian – both of whom have been pictured with a pint of the black stuff.
A recent TikTok trend has seen the emergence of so-called female “Guinnfluencers” who share images of the best-poured pints in pubs.
Diageo – the umbrella company behind the brand – is now being accused of unfairly cashing in.
Marina Perez Romo, of consumer intelligence firm Euromonitor, said: “Diageo had a really good year for Guinness but a bit of a tough year for its other brands. The stout, within the alcoholic trade, is one of its best-performing brands.
“I can’t tell you why they have decided to increase the cost of Guinness, but it could be a way of controlling the sale of Guinness and compensating for other losses.”
She added that where previously the drink might be associated with a “man at the rugby” now it was enjoyed by more women.
“Aside from the marketing and social media, it’s linked to the health and wellness trends [and] now with its lower alcohol option and lower calories it is appealing to women and to trends on social media. It’s seen as not a healthier beer, but a less alcoholic and less calorific one.”
Between February 2023 and February 2024, the average cost of a pint of Guinness rose from £4.15 to £4.48, according to data from market research firm UK Debt Expert.
In London, this rises to £5.83, where it is the most expensive in the country. The capital is followed by Edinburgh and Brighton where a pint of the stout costs £5.33 and £5.11 respectively.
But Simon Clarke, who owns The Railway Tavern in Tulse Hill, south London, estimates Diageo has increased Guinness prices by around 25pc since the pandemic.
Mr Clarke told The Telegraph: “My son is 18 and all of his friends drink it. The boys and the girls, all of them. It was never like that 15 years ago, it was just an old man’s drink. It’s really gained some traction.”
“Me and other landlords feel Diageo has just been gouging. Guinness has gone from being the fourth or fifth most popular beer in the UK to being number one for the last two years.”