EXCLUSIVE: Relaunched Watchmaker Daniel Roth Unveils First Commercial Model

PARIS — It’s time for relaunched Swiss watchmaker Daniel Roth’s first commercial timepiece.

A follow-up to the inaugural Tourbillon Souscription, the 38.6-millimeter double-ellipse model — soberly titled Tourbillon Rose Gold — is another nod to the wrist-worn tourbillon design known as reference 2187/C187.

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Originally a 25-piece commission from Asprey of London, the style was credited for funding the launch of Roth’s brand in 1988 and became a sought-after signature design.

“We wanted to remain faithful to the spirit of [founder] Daniel Roth, to the aesthetic codes and know-how he has defined since the creation of his eponymous brand,” said Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned watchmaking hub.

Daniel Roth Watch
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

In his opinion, the house aesthetic is classic, with cases aiming to “dress up” the movement’s watchmaking technicality.

Used here were Roth’s signatures of a double ellipse “ellipsocurvex” case shape as well as the dial’s pinstripe guilloche, Roman numerals, and circular satin finish.

The dial was produced in collaboration with the engine-turning atelier of Kari Voutilainen, a Switzerland-based Finnish clockmaker whose designs have won 10 prizes at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.

The overall design of the latest Daniel Roth also plays off the contrast between two rose gold and rhodium-plated elements, including sterling silver chapters and scales on the subdials. Indexes and hands are in black lacquer and add further visual appeal.

The choice of rose gold, in particular the warmer-tone 5N alloy, was driven by the balance between its modern appeal and wide use in classic watchmaking.

“It is a perfect evolution from the vintage feel of the yellow gold used for the Tourbillon Souscription,” continued Hegi.

While updates on the lugs and crown are perceptible to aficionados, the biggest change brought by this watch is the sapphire caseback that gives a view on the DR001 caliber.

Two years in the making, the caliber was developed by LFT’s master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

“We approached [its] development with a lot of respect in regard to Daniel’s achievements and watchmaking philosophy. It had to be a movement that Daniel would love at first sight and feel connected to straightaway,” said Navas, revealing that the team shared updates with Roth throughout conception.