The area around the Moscone Centre where delegations from 21 economies are meeting was walled off by tall black fences. And on some streets local police, California Highway Patrol, Secret Service and for-hire security guards outnumbered pedestrians.
Supporters cheer as the motorcade of China's President Xi Jinping passes as he arrives to his hotel near the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summit headquarters on November 14. Photo: AFP
"I haven't seen it like this since Haight-Ashbury days," said Curtiss Hayden, a "welcome ambassador" in an orange jacket, referring to a neighbourhood known for its long-standing hippy activism, standing near a loud demonstration.
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A few steps away near the crossroads of Third and Mission streets, a couple of hundred pro-China demonstrators gathered on a terraced fountain waving Chinese flags. Speakers with blown woofers belonging to the pro-China group blared out recordings of the Chinese national anthem and cries of "jia you" or "go for it" that could be heard blocks away.
"It's very loud," said a mystified bystander. "Is that really them or a recording?" Nearby, protester jackets and banners identified participants as members of the China Anti-Cult World Alliance and the New York Shandong Association.
A handful of critics, meanwhile, held signs aloft calling for human rights, justice and property rights in China. At one point a critic held out a sign and a pro-China demonstrator blocked it with a huge Chinese flag, leading to a fight involving nearly a dozen people using flags and signs as battering rams before police broke it up.
The draw of 25,000 registered journalists descending on San Francisco and the resulting global attention has attracted politicians, civic groups and attention seekers from far and wide this week.
Congressman Mike Gallagher from Wisconsin, chairman of the Select Committee on the Chinese Communist Party, flew into town and held an impromptu press conference on Saturday.
"I think it's a great idea. I've been concerned about the tensions over Taiwan," she said. "The first thing is opening the lines of communication. I don't believe bullying works."
Protesters are outside the St. Regis Hotel on the sidelines of the Apec summit in San Francisco on Tuesday morning. Photo: Bloomberg