America’s $3 Billion Habit: Meat Sticks
American consumers have a growing appetite for what snackers alternately call meat, or snack, sticks, and they’ve never been more spoiled for choice.
American consumers have a growing appetite for what snackers alternately call meat, or snack, sticks, and they’ve never been more spoiled for choice. - Elizabeth Coetzee/WSJ

Most mornings, Greg Brooks wakes up and heads to a 7-Eleven for a meat stick.

He’s promptly bombarded with choices, from the classic Slim Jim to a proliferation of options promising to be healthier and less processed. Brooks, 59, won’t bite. He’s in the meat-stick aisle for quick protein and a flavor hit.

Most Read from The Wall Street Journal

“Delicacy is sort of lost on me,” he said. “I am not that guy out there looking for the latest artisanal, ‘nuns on top of a mountain put together these very special’ meat sticks.”

America loves its meat sticks. They are the fastest-growing category in snacks. That’s good news for Big Meat Stick. But the flood of flavors and high-end options that has come with the snack’s rising popularity has divided fans.

Traditionalists, who prize the snack for its smoky simplicity, have a beef with the onslaught of choice. Other fans are being lured to a new breed of packaged offerings that claim to be sugar-free and use grass-fed meat. Some won’t touch anything that didn’t come from a butcher—and please, whatever you do, don’t call it a meat stick.

Like a lot of people of a certain age, Kyle McCorry, 36, felt the early pull of the Slim Jim.

“I was obsessed with ‘Macho Man’ Randy Savage, so of course I was a big Slim Jim fan,” he said, referring to one of World Wrestling Entertainment’s biggest stars starting in the 1980s, who beckoned fans to “snap into a Slim Jim!” before cooing, “Oooohhh yeaaaaah!”

That was elementary school, though. McCorry says his tastes have evolved beyond the coaxing of Macho Man, and these days he roams the meat-stick aisle looking for options that at least seem healthier. He usually goes with Chomps.

“I’m not looking at the ingredient label,” admits McCorry, who works in corporate development at a home-services company in Virginia Beach, Va. “But I wouldn’t grab a Slim Jim or similar options because in my mind they aren’t as healthy.”

Slim Jim maker Conagra Brands, which also owns the Fatty and Duke’s meat snack brands, packs its products with “protein and flavor,” said Ashley Spade, vice president and general manager of the snack business at Conagra.

McCorry’s meat-stick eating usually comes midmorning or early afternoon, with peanuts and a cheese stick. “So, like, a lazy man’s charcuterie board,” he said.